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Get around
By taxi and Rental Car
Taxis are the most comfortable way
of getting around, and not too
expensive - about 12,000 dong for
the first 1km, plus 10,000 dong per
additional km. (Prices jumped about
30% at the start of 2008, and again
in July 2008 due to the soaring
price of fuel but have since been
reduced.) It's usually not hard to
flag a taxi anywhere in the central
city, though finding an available
one in the rain or during peak hours
can be difficult.
Taxi rates are not regulated by the
city government, and each company
sets its own fare structure, which
changes from time to time. The
market is fairly competitive,
however, and the major companies all
reasonably honest with similar
rates. Major companies include:
Vinasun (white and dark green), Mai
Linh (various shades of white
(standard), light green (mini w/
cheaper rate), brown, and silver,
Vinataxi (yellow and blue),
Petrolimex (white with blue and
orange) and Savico (blue). Hoang
Long (green and yellow) charges
similar fares for short trips, but
is 10-20% higher for long trips.
Some off-brand taxis, such as
"Taxi-Meter," have fast meters, and
are best avoided unless you are a
regular and know them well. Drivers
generally do not speak English or
any other foreign language, so if
your destination is somewhere other
than the airport or a major hotel,
it might help to write the name
and/or address on paper beforehand.
Some of the larger, upscale hotels
in the city (Caravelle Hotel,
Sheraton, Park Hyatt, et al) are
frequented by "Saigon Tourist"
taxis, which often charge in dollars
and are very expensive. Make sure to
specify to your hotel receptionist
or concierge that you want either
one of the aforementioned taxi
companies (Mai Linh, Vinasun, or
Vinataxi) rather than the tourist
trap taxis, or they will not
hesitate to put you in an expensive
taxi.
Carry small change and bills for
paying fares, since drivers are
often short of change. Taxi models
in service range from the tiny
Daewoo Matiz to big Toyota Innova
minivans. Newer cars are more likely
to have working air-con; larger
mini-SUV-type models sometimes
charge a higher rate.
For trips outside of the city or for
the convenience of having a private
vehicle for the day, daily car hire
with driver is a good option. Many
of the taxi companies such as Mai
Linh and Vinasun offer these
services. For a little more money,
Budget Car Rental, the American car
rental company, offers English
speaking drivers who serve as tour
guides and to take you around the
city or to sites such as Cu Chi.
By motorbike
Traffic In Ho Chi Minh CityMotorbike
taxis (xe ôm, literally hug-vehicle)
are plentiful (get used to hearing
"you want moto!?" everywhere),
cheap, and are generally quite safe.
As of December 15th, 2007 all riders
in Vietnam are now required to wear
helmets and this is strongly
enforced. As such, the driver should
supply you with a helmet. If he
doesn't - find another one, as
you'll be the one stung for the
fine. Absolutely agree on a price
before you set off; short hops
around town shouldn't be more than
10000 dong, and all the way to the
airport around 30000. Rule of thumb
for the price will be nearest round
up of half the cost of taxi ride for
the same travel. Drivers are
generally quite friendly and will go
slower if requested. They're also
not adverse to a bear hug if you're
really struggling. Many of the moto
drivers, especially in district 1
speak some English, and like many
Vietnamese will repay you in a flood
of smiles (and probably point out
all the sights) if you make a little
effort to get to know them.
You can rent your own motorbike in
many places, especially around the
backpacker area (Pham Ngu Lao) in
District 1. Prices range from
US$3-7/day; US$4 should get you a
solid 100-110cc bike. Driving in
Saigon is best left to experienced
drivers, however - the traffic is
intense, and has its own rhythms and
logic. Drivers with limited
experience should consider renting
an automatic bike (usually a bit
more expensive), as at busy
crossroads there is not time for
worrying about how to change gears.
Beware of thieves: always keep your
motorbike in sight or parked with an
attendant. Most restaurants have
guard / parking attendants out front
who will issue you a numbered tag
and take care of your motorbike.
Independent parking lots are
scattered around the sidewalks,
alleys, and basements of the city –
look for rows of neatly-parked
motorbikes or signs that say giu xe.
Prices range from free at some
restaurants (though a small tip is
common) to 5000 dong (~.30 US cents)
at upscale night clubs.
By cyclo
For many reasons, not least because
of government attempts to restrict
cyclos on busy urban streets, cyclos
are disappearing. At around
US$2/hour and because they are so
slow, they can be a good choice for
taking in the city - however in
areas popular with tourists, they
often try to overcharge, so bargain
beforehand. The price changes after
your journey as finished, resulting
in an embarrassing argument which
soon becomes an intimidating
atmosphere as other cyclo drivers
appear as back up. So taking a cyclo
is not really fun. The driver often
visits places which benefit his
wallet. The driver often ignores
your directions for museums and
heads to his favored local poor
quality gift shop. They circulate
around the central market and will
immediately try to take you on a
city tour the moment you are on
board. Unless you fancy the novelty
of a cyclo, a taxi will be quicker
and just as cheap to anywhere you
may want to go.
By bus
Look for the bright green buses with
150+ routes (Aug 2008) - maps of the
bus system can be picked up across
from Ben Thanh Market - just go into
the waiting room to the desk in the
middle. Cheap, safe and not too
crowded either but only if you can
find the right line. If you cannot
find your way, ask the locals
nicely, they will try their best to
help. A piece of paper and marker
pen may help to ease the
conversation. Cheaper 2,000 - 4,000
dong and safer than many of the
alternatives, the biggest problem is
that when you get off the bus, you
become a pedestrian (see below).
For those who aren't staying in Ho
Chi Minh City very long, or want to
save his/her time, take a look on
the website [1] for the City Look
Bus. It'll take you to the famous
places in Hochiminh city with the
price from 15,000d to 75,000d,
including the tour guide and the
information in English.
On foot
Traffic is made up of a staggering
number of motorbikes and, since
import duty was reduced upon
Vietnam's joining of the WTO, an
increasing number of private cars.
However its exceptionally rare to
see a motorbike of more than 150cc,
and the traffic rarely gets above
20-30km/h in central areas.
However crossing the road in Saigon
can be a nightmare. The first time
may be a little scary, after that
you will get used to it quite
quickly. If ever in doubt, Saigon's
"Tourist Security" officers (guys in
marked green uniforms) will happily
help you across. A quicker way of
getting across is to simply follow
the lead of a local crossing the
street.
However the true trick to crossing
the road is to stay aware, and walk
slowly and confidently. The
motorbike riders are actually
exceptionally good and will simply
move to avoid you - just don't make
any sudden lurches forwards,
backwards, or stop for that matter!
Just look for a gap or seam in the
traffic, and begin a slow but steady
movement.
Adherence to traffic signals in
Saigon is vastly improving, and
while they're not always followed,
riders/drivers tend to use "best
judgment". Just remember though that
vehicles can always turn right at
any time (regardless of lights).
Motorbikes often drive in the wrong
direction (albeit quite safely and
slowly) in unexpected places also.
Crossing roads is therefore a
challenge for Westerners used to
traffic laws and traffic lights.
The streets, sidewalks, and outdoor
markets are covered by motorbikes,
and not yet geared towards
pedestrian traffic (although
sidewalk clearing campaigns are now
underway- many areas of the center
are easy to negotiate as long as you
keep your wits about you for
speeding motorbikes). However
walking along the edge of the road
is easy enough. Any motorbikes
behind you will generally beep at
you to let you know they're there.
The traffic police occupy themselves
with random roadside checks and do
not bother the motorcyclists that
are running red lights or driving on
the sidewalks. The police recently
announced a crackdown on
pedestrians. This does NOT mean that
they will hassle you; the most
likely meaning of the crackdown is
that you will be held responsible if
you are involved in an accident.
But there are some open sidewalks to
walk safely on and just walking
around the city helps you really get
a taste of it. Seeing people cook on
the side of the street and just
standing watching traffic go by in
awe is just as entertaining as
anything.
Maps
Most hotels will provide a free
tourist map of district 1 although
these vary in quality and tend to be
advertising based. The Sheraton have
one of the best of these and will
provide one if you ask at reception.
Within District 1, 'Bookazine' at
#28 Dong Khoi (between Ngo Duc Ke
and Ho Huan Nghiep) have larger city
Maps if you plan to venture beyond
District 1. The one published by Du
Lich & Giao Thong has a street index
on the back. Fahasa Books also carry
a full range of available Maps. They
have two large stores in District 1
- 185 Dong Khoi, just down from Le
Thanh Ton, and 40 Nguyen Hue, just
down from Mac Thi Buoi. MySherpa
Travel have also published tourist
maps of central District 1 with all
shops and points of interest marked.
Outlets in Saigon include Gaya,
Dolce Casa, Annam Fine Foods, T&V
Tailor, Galley Deli, and a number of
two star hotels.
See
The tank that ended the war, outside
the Reunification Palace
Last call for South Vietnam,
Reunification PalaceReunification
Palace, Enter at 135 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia Street, ☎ 9693272. Open daily
7:30AM-11:00AM, 1PM-4PM. Also known
as Independence Palace (this is the
old name). This is a restored
five-floor time warp to the Sixties
left largely untouched from the day
before Saigon fell to the North
(construction started in 1962 and
finished in 1966). Formerly South
Vietnam's Presidential Palace, the
war ended on April 30, 1975 when
tank #843 — a replica of which is
now parked on the lawn outside —
crashed through the gate. Be sure to
check out the impressively kitschy
recreation room, featuring a
circular sofa, and the eerie
basement, full of vintage 1960s
phones, radios, and office
equipment, supposedly left exactly
as it was found when the North took
over. There is also a photo gallery
and a propaganda film recounting how
the South Vietnamese supporters and
American imperialists succumbed to
Ho Chi Minh's indomitable
revolutionary forces, upon which
point the South Vietnamese
supporters were forgiven and
everyone lived happily ever after.
Tours are available and are free,
but not necessary. There is a nice
outdoor café on the grounds outside
the palace. Entry 15,000 dong.
War Remnants Museum, 28 Vo Van Tan
Street, ☎ 9302112, 9306325, 9305587
(warrmhcm@gmail.com). Open daily
7:30AM-12PM, 1:30PM-5PM, last
admission 4:30PM. Formerly known as
the of Exhibition House of American
War Crimes, the museum was opened in
a hurry, less than five months after
the fall of the South. It's
currently housed in a rather
confused assemblage of seven
warehouses, with new purpose-built
premises partially open for
temporary and permanent exhibits.
This disturbing display of man's
cruelty during the Vietnam
(American) War includes halls full
of gruesome photographs, a simulated
"tiger cage" prison and jars of
deformed fetuses blamed on Agent
Orange. There is bias as there are
no "records" of any unpleasant deeds
having been committed by the North
Vietnamese Army. Outside, there are
helicopters, jets, tanks, and other
bits of armament. However watch out
for the amputees who will try and
sell you their wares. It's only a
block from the Reunification Palace
— see the museum pamphlet for a map.
Entry 15,000 dong. edit
On Le Quy Don, just south of the
museum, is a 2000 dong/cone soft ice
cream vendor, a happy treat in a hot
and hectic city.
City Hall, end of Nguyen Hue Street.
Originally called the Hôtel de Ville
and now formally re-branded the
People's Committee Hall, it's a
striking cream and yellow French
colonial building beautifully
floodlit at night. No entry, but the
statue of Uncle Ho in front is a
very popular place for photos.
Museum of Vietnamese History, at the
intersection of Le Duan Street and
Nguyen Binh Khiem (just inside the
zoo gates). The museum has a fine
collection of Vietnamese
antiquities, but unfortunately they
are accompanied by signage which is
both in poor English and full of
risible Marxist distortions. Read up
on Vietnamese history first or
you'll have no idea what you're
looking at. Outside, the Botanical
Gardens are very nice and a good
place for a cheap lunch away from
the crowds. If you care about animal
welfare, avoid the zoo. edit
Ho-Chi-Minh Museum, Duong Nguyen Tat
Thanh, Dist. 4, for your propaganda
dose. Open daily 7:30AM-12:00PM,
1:30PM-5PM, last admission 4:30PM,
10,000 dong entry. The museum (in a
French colonial era building) near
the dock of Saigon shows the life
story of the modern day father of
Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh (the guy on the
money). There's also a Ho Chi Minh
book shop as well.
Religious sites
Notre Dame Cathedral (Nhà thờ Đức Bà),
Han Thuyen Street, facing down Dong
Khoi (next to the Post Office).
Closes for lunch and on weekends. A
French-built Catholic cathedral in
the city center. Free entry. edit
There are several Chinese temples in
Cholon, the Chinatown district of
old Saigon. Only a few are listed
here.
Incense, Thien Hau PagodaThien Hau
Pagoda, 710 Nguyen Trai Street,
Cholon. Dedicated to Lady Thien Hau,
the sea goddess, who left two giant
turtles to keep an eye on things in
her absence. A festival is held in
her honor on the 23rd day of the
March lunar month. Don't miss the
gorgeous sculptures in the walls of
the courtyard outside the temple.
Entry free. edit
Quan Am Pagoda, 12 Lao Tu, Cholon
(Just off Hung Vuong, close to Thien
Hau Pagoda). Open 8AM-4:30PM. The
oldest pagoda in town, home of a lot
of incense and a cheerful puppy.
Entry free. edit
Phung Son Tu Pagoda, 408 3 Thang 2
Blvd (On the outskirts of Cholon).
Dedicated to the god of happiness
and virtue. The pagoda itself is
dusty and dwarfed by high-rises
under construction nearby, but the
small, sculpted grounds are a good
place for a rest from the hectic
city. edit
If the heat starts to get you down,
there are several water parks where
you can splash around to cool off.
Dam Sen Water Park, 03 Hoa Binh,
Ward 3, District 11, ☎ 858.8418,
865.3453 (damsenwaterpark@vnn.vn,
fax: 858.8419), [2]. Mon-Sat
8:30AM-6PM, Sundays and Holidays
8AM-7PM. Close to the city centre.
Opened in 1999, with new water
slides added each year — this water
park offers some truly unique water
slide experiences (including the
amazing "Space Bowl")! The slides
have been badly designed and it's a
common sight to see someone
clutching their head when leaving
them. Restaurant, health services,
and animatronic dinosaurs are on the
premises. Admission is height based;
under 0.8m free, others 35-80,000
dong. edit
There's also Water World in District
9, Ocean Water Park in District 7,
and Dai The Gioi Water Park in
District 5.
The Saigon River. The park in front
of the Renaissance Hotel offers nice
views of the river. Make sure you
know how to cross the road before
attempting to get there. Expect to
encounter some beggars in the park.
Visiting hair salons is also a must
do for tourists, as Vietnamese are
famous for it. Hair wash, manicure
and pedicure cost no more than
US$10.
If you're in Saigon on a Sunday
night, then beg, borrow, or rent a
two-wheeled vehicle and join the
throngs for di choi. It's basically
a party on wheels, where everyone
just rides through the downtown
streets until the wee hours.
Galaxy Cinema at 116, Nguyen Du,
District 1, is a favorite among
locals and bored tourists. They show
up-to-date movies on the big screen.
Xuan Spa (If you have that much
money. Services on the upside of USD
100), Park Hyatt Saigon Hotel, 2 Lam
Son Square, District 1, ☎ +84 8 824
1234 (saigon.park@hyattintl.com),
[3]. edit
Dai Nam Tourist Park, Thu Dau Mot
Town, Binh Duong Province (Catch the
616 Bus from the Bus Station, or
talk to a travel agent), [4].
Located about 40km from Ho Chi Minh
City, the Dai Nam Tourist Park,
opened in November of 2008, it is
one of the newest and largest
tourist attractions in Vietnam. It
features the Dai Nam Van Hien
Temple, an entertainment site, open
range zoo, shopping areas, hotels,
local and western cuisine sites, and
the largest man made mountain range
in Vietnam. Costing over 50 Billion
VND to build, this park is the
beginning of mass tourism in
Vietnam, although it is aimed at
both tourists and locals and comes
highly recommended. Transport
options to the park are quite
convoluted and as the park is new,
online information is scarce.
Reports are that you can catch the
616 bus from the main bus terminal
in Ho Chi Minh, but most hotels will
tell you that's not possible and
insist on a private taxi. According
to the locals, it is very much worth
a visit, purely just to view the
temple. edit
Buy
Vietnamese arts and crafts, or
mass-produced resin knock-offs
thereof, are sold by dozens of shops
around the central tourist district.
The best, most expensive items can
be mostly found on Dong Khoi or the
immediate side streets; and the
goods tend to get progressively
simpler and cheaper as you move west
toward Ben Than Market (though the
best wood-carving shop is a stall on
the back side of Ben Thanh). A few
shops have authentic woven silk
textiles from Sapa and the north.
Lacquered paintings, plates, bowls,
etc. are quite striking and unique
to Vietnam. Vietnamese propaganda
posters very impressive and offer a
taste of history. When buying keep
in mind that is very useful to have
local currency (Dong).Be advised
that Banks and formal exchange
business will provide you with a
decent rate (16000 dongs = 1 US$
dollar Jul 2008). However, agencies
like Statravel on the main Vui Ban
street will rip you off offering you
13000 if you are lucky.
Markets
Chợ Bến Thành aka Ben Thanh Market,
Southwest end of Le Loi,
recognizable with its clock tower on
the large traffic circle. The
largest old-style market in the
central district, with several
hundred small stalls stuffed with
goods on almost impassably narrow
aisles. Due to its popularity with
tourists, the market is now divided
about half and half between tourist
goods (jeans, T-shirts, smaller
souvenirs in abundance) and the
stuff of regular life (fruit and
vegetables, rice, kitchen wares,
flowers, meat, fast food, and
local-style pickled fruits and
candies). Most items are not
price-marked, and vendors always
quote a 50-100% higher price to
tourists vs. locals, so the
fortitude to haggle will save you
some money. (There is some talk of
'fixed' prices are being introduced,
though if you are polite, and don't
offend the vendor's pride, and are
willing to walk away, no price is
truly fixed). If the good selection
of knock-offs here just won't do,
there's plenty to be had in the
surrounding side street shops or
night market later. *insider tip* if
possible, take your own bag when
shopping. vendors have been known to
give out different colored bags to
indicate if you are a sucker, or a
hard bargainer.
Chợ Bình Tây in the Chinatown, the
more underrated twin of Ben Thanh,
selling everything from spices,
Chinese medicines, silk to obscure
varieties of fermented fish, dried
seafoods and jerks. If you are
searching for varieties of Vietnam
silks and velvets, skip the tourist
trap Ben Thanh Market, head for Binh
Tay and your choice is endless.
Night Market (just outside of Ben
Thanh Market). Here you can enjoy
many kinds of different food and
drink, and go round to do your
shopping as well. Open from 5:00pm
(when the Ben Thanh Market closes).
War Surplus Market, sometimes called
the American Market or "Cho Cu" or "Khu
Dan Sinh" in corner of Yersin and
Nguyen Cong Tru, district 1. Hidden
behind rows of hardware and electric
supplies shops, just brave yourself
and enter in. Dense warrens of
stalls with old American military
gear of indeterminate authenticity
(e.g. "nice collection of so called
authentic GI's Zippo lighter from
the war era"), cheap t-shirts, and
military paraphernalia. Don't hope
to find a genuine Marine zippo,
honestly, they're all fake now.
Supermarkets and department
stores
Tax Department Store, corner of Le
Loi and Nguyen Hue. Formerly the
Russian Market, this is now a rather
sterile department store of sorts
filled with stalls selling touristy
kitsch, although the selections get
better as you ascend the levels.
There's a good supermarket on level
2. If you are traveling here by
taxi, the new name may be met by
blank expressions from taxi drivers.
The old name seems to work.
Small western-style supermarkets,
can be found on the top floor of the
Parkson department store one block
northeast of the Opera House, and in
Diamond Plaza, behind the Cathedral,
on the top floor of the department
store.
Co-op Mart Supermarkets, frequented
by throngs of the Saigon
middle-class and backpackers alike,
can be found everywhere around HCMC.
In district 1 they can be found at
the corner of Nam Ky Khoi Nghia and
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, about 1 km from
the center OR in Cong Quynh, walking
distance away from the end of
Backpacker street Pham Ngu Lao.
Prices are reasonably lower, though
the selection leans more toward
Vietnamese culinary requirements.
Three western/Japanese-style
department stores exist near the
center: Parkson on Dong Khoi a block
north of the Opera house; Diamond
Plaza, further north behind the
Notre Dame Cathedral; and Zen Plaza
on Nguyen Trai two blocks west of
the New World Hotel. For most
visitors, the only reason to go
there is to enjoy the air-con, and
derive some amusement from the
silly-high prices of western-branded
consumer goods.
Souvenirs
Phuong Mai Art Gallery, 129 B Le
Thanh Ton St., Dist.1 (near the
Norfolk Hotel and the Revolution
Museum). A gallery showing
contemporary Vietnamese artists,
both established and emerging.
There's another showroom at 213C
Dong Khoi in Dist. 1. edit
Oil-Painting - Bui Vien Street, near
backpackers area in De Tham and Pham
Ngu Lao streets, in District 1.
There are several shops along this
street selling oil painting at
reasonable prices (ranging from
US$25-300). If you like a portrait
of Vietnamese paintings or even have
your own photographs oil-painted,
shop around here. You can get a
readily available portrait within a
day or two.
Others
Electronics Just a warning for
others, whilst some of the country's
cheapest electronics can be found on
and around Huynh Thuc Khang, be
aware most shops are selling
counterfeit items. Things such as
dodgy iPods are easy to spot when
compared to the genuine thing, but
items such as camera batteries are
much more difficult. If you are
thinking about buying some extra
memory for your digital camera, be
warned that most of the memory will
be fake. Fake Sandisk II Ultra cards
are ubiquitous and extremely
difficult to tell apart from real
ones. These cards are apparently of
low quality and one has to ask if it
is worth risking your holiday snaps.
It is probably worth mentioning that
fake batteries have the potential to
explode, too, so be careful. You
might even be better off buying this
stuff from home. That said, you can
pick up some bargains if you know
what you're looking for. Just
exercise caution; if it is too good
to be true and so forth.
Lacquer ware One of the stand out
things to bring home from Saigon.
Head to Saigon Craft (between Mac
Thi Buoi and Dong Du on Dong Khoi)
for stunning original works, then
Gift 42 (opposite Lucky Plaza on
Dong Khoi) for the best of the rest.
Home Decor Originality and value. If
you’re thinking of investing $2,000
or more on home furnishing, a crate
shipped from Saigon could pay for
your trip. Begin by looking for
major items in Gaya (Ton That Thiep
just before Pasteur) if you like
modern, and Verlim (40 Ho Tung Mao -
just up from Ham Nghi), if your
style is more formal/traditional.
Organize shipping through either of
these fine merchants. Then you can
go wild and buy up…framed art, Gom
Viet pottery (Cnr Ly Tu Trong and
Pasteur), Lighting from NGA (Le
Thanh Ton between Nguyen Hue and
Dong Khoi) or Mosaic (Mac Thi Buoi
just before Nguyen Hue) and antiques
found on Le Cong Kieu. Provide extra
padding for your crate with
Catherine Denoual bed ware (Thi Sach,
just down from Le Thanh Ton), and/or
Dolce Casa cushions/quilts (Dong
Khoi opposite the Sheraton). Ask
these and other retailers to deliver
your purchases back to Gaya or
Verlim. They take care of the rest.
Clothes Vietnamese silk is fabulous
and Hoang Khai shows the world. His
flagship Khai Silk store at 107 Dong
Khoi is a must visit. Next door,
Creation and Indochina provide
sterling competition. Ladies, you
are spoiled for choice after this.
Follow your nose, but make sure you
don’t miss La Bella, La Bella Blue
(Pasteur and Le Thanh Ton), Song
(Dong Khoi and Le Thanh Ton and in
Eden Mall on Dong Khoi), and
acclaimed designer Minh Hanh (Just
up from Dong Khoi and Ngo Duc Ke).
Look out for exquisite hand
embroidered items along the way.
Accessories At Gaya you’ll spot
Anupa bags and you’ll want one.
Those not loaded should avoid
sticker shock and (ladies) head
immediately to Ipa Nima (cnr Pasteur
and Le Thanh Ton) for a stunning and
more affordable collection. Press on
to Mandarina (Le Than Ton just past
NKKN) for bargain shoes and Le Hang
(Le Thanh Ton between Pasteur and
NKKN) for bead/bespoke jewelery
nirvana.
Kids presents Musical stuff from
Chuck and Anna (Lucky Plaza - bottom
of Dong Khoi) will hit the spot.
DVD buffs with no scruples should
head to Ho Tung Mao
Romance Candles, oils and soaps from
Harnn (Dong Du near Hai Bai Trung)
Books Fahasa English Bookstore (Dong
Khoi cnr Le Thanh Ton and Nguyen Hue
just down from Mac Thi Buoi). Also
try U.S.A Books [5] on 100 Pham Viet
Chanh, Q1 near backpacker's area.
They sell below-listed price,new
hardcover/softcover originals
imported from the States
For Men/Tailors Khai Silk and
Creation have very desirable shirts
at around $30, and ties to compete
with your Zegnas for $10. Off the
peg shirts can be tailored for you
at no charge. Otherwise, take your
favourite shirts/shorts/pants to
Tricia and Verona (half way up Dong
Du), who’ll make you up a perfect
copy in silk, linen or finest
Egyptian cotton. Allow two days. $25
- $50. Here for five days? You have
time for a suit. For quality work
from old boys who know their cloth -
Cao Minh (Pasteur between Le Thanh
Ton and Le Loi). Want to go where
old money/ex pats go? Minh Doan (Le
Thanh Ton just down from Nguyen
Trung Truc) is your pick.
Art Vietnamese artists are
increasing their international
reputation. Sell some stock and
invest in something yielding a daily
return from your walls. Consider
your investment in Apricot (Mac Thi
Buoi), Mai’s (Nguyen Hue just up
from Mac Thi Buoi), Hanoi Studio
(Dong Du), or Tu Do ((Ho Tung Mau).
Eat and contemplate in Gallery Deli
(Dong Khoi just down from Mac Thi
Buoi). Listen and contemplate in Sax
‘n Art Le Loi and Pasteur). Bargain
frames – Ben Thanh Art and Frame (11
Le Thanh Ton - 100 north from Thai
Van Lung).
Bicycle Shops are most frequent
along Vo Thi Sau. The biggest one -
actually 6 shops next to each other
- is Martin at 93-107 Vo Thi Sau and
has the best selection of bikes.
They also sell spare parts for
western-style mountain bikes.
There are two good guide books for
shoppers in Ho Chi Minh City: the
Luxe city guide and the MySherpa
guide which also includes a map with
shops cross referenced.
Eat
You're spoiled for choice in Saigon,
which offers the country's largest
variety of Vietnamese and
international food. Bargains are
getting harder to find, however, and
restaurant prices have been rising
at up to 30% per year due to a
combination of higher food prices,
rising wages, and soaring real
estate costs. Land in the city
center now sells for around
US$16,000 per square meter, so even
a modest-sized restaurant sits on
real estate worth more than US$1
million. Authentic local food at
bargain prices is one of the glories
of Vietnam, but it's getting harder
to find in Saigon as the city
becomes ever more upscale and
cosmopolitan.
Budget
Food stalls are scattered all over
the city, but there's a fair
collection in the Ben Thanh market
(see Buy). For local fast food, try
the ubiquitous Pho 24 chain.
Along Pham Ngu Lao there are many
budget Westernised options, and
venturing a bit further into the
side alleys can uncover some better
choices than on the main streets.
Dong Ba, 110A Nguyen Du, Dist 1.
This is a shop that sells Hue Food
including Hue beef noodles and
traditional banh beo rice cakes.
Faifo, on an alley off Huynh Tinh
Cua, almost to Ly Chinh Thang, about
2km from the center in Q3. A
family-run restaurant featuring
central-Vietnamese dishes at modest
prices -- a combination of value and
authenticity not to be found
directly in the tourist district.
Dinner for two with beer or juice
runs about 130,000 dong. It's
becoming so popular, getting a table
is sometimes difficult.
Pho Bo Vien Quoc Ky, 52 Ngo Duc Ke
(near Nguyen Hué, District 1). A
nice and cheap place for a soup. Try
the sate version of the usual Pho or
My: a spicy delicacy!
Doner Kebab, 198 Bui Vien st.,
District 1. Inside the backpacker
area, you could easily find this
small hawk. 15,000d for each Turkish
Kebab.
Dream Cones, 16 Nguyen Thi Nghia
St., Ben Thanh Ward, Dist. 1. What a
great respite in such a hot and
heaving city. Gelato ice cream for
less than 16,000 dong a scoop. Nice
quirky and cool neon atmosphere,
with lots of white leather seating.
Free unlimited (unsweetened) iced
tea served with your ice cream they
pour at your table.
Falafellim, 97 Pham Ngu Lao St.,
District 1. Homemade falafel, tahini
and hummus in soft pita bread
pockets. Eat in, take away or
delivered to your hotel - call
08-915-1733. Free 5 min
international calls to limited
destinations.
Pho 24, Clean modern chain found
everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City.
Excellent beef noodle soup, very
cheap.
BanhMiBistro, 76 Vo Thi Sau,
District 1, across from Le Van Tam
park. Great fresh gourmet
sandwiches, especially the famous
Vietnamese "Banh Mi". Bread is baked
fresh in the store. There are 3
other outlets around town including
one across from the airport in the
Parkson CT Plaza.
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